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Americans are accustomed to taking the family dog or cat to the veterinarian for an annual check-up. It is even more important for a pet bird to have regular examinations, because birds tend to have very subtle symptoms of disease.
QUARANTINE
Isolation and quarantine of a new bird is the first and most important thing an owner should do. In order to protect other birds on the premises, it is advised that all newly acquired birds be maintained separately for a period of at least six weeks following purchase. Because many airborne viruses may be spread from room to room by central air conditioning or heating systems, an off-premise location is preferred. Quarantine is essential for all new birds, even those that are believed to be "healthy".
NEW BIRD EXAMINATIONThe second most valuable step for a new bird owner is to establish a relationship with an avian veterinarian, preferably one who is a member of the Association of Avian Veterinarians.
An examination of a newly acquired bird within the first three days after purchase is recommended in order to protect the investment of the owner, to uncover and prevent possible disease conditions, and to educate the owner about appropriate bird care.
Even if the new bird checks out "normal", results of diagnostic tests in the initial patient record provide valuable references for subsequent examinations.
COMPONENTS OF THE EXAMHistory: Your veterinarian is very interested in what you know about the background of your bird -- its age, sex, origin, length of time in the household, diet, caging. Even if the bird has been a household pet for a long time, the veterinarian should be advised of any contact, direct or indirect, with other birds. Examples of indirect contact would be the owner's buying of bulk seed from open bins in a pet shop that houses birds, or visiting other aviaries, bird shows or bird markets.
Physical Evaluation: From an initial, critical observation of the bird in the cage, the veterinarian can determine general body conformation (obesity, tumors), posture, attitude and character of respiration. Although many internal problems may not be evident from a step-by-step, hands-on examination, an experienced avian veterinarian will be able to note abnormalities in the feathers, skin, beak, eyes, ears, nares, oral cavity, bones, muscles, abdomen and vent.
Weight: Once a bird has become an adult, the weight should remain relatively constant. Checking the weight occasionally, especially at the annual examination, will give valuable information about your bird's health. A bird's weight should be measured in grams, not ounces, in order to detect small increments of change.
TESTING PROCEDURESDepending on the bird's history, results of physical examination species, age and general condition, your veterinarian may suggest some of the following diagnostic techniques that will assist in evaluating your bird's health.
Appraisal of Droppings: The appearance of the droppings volume, color and composition may help the veterinarian generally assess the bird's health and consider certain disease conditions. Most birds are nervous in the clinic, so their droppings may be abnormally loose there. A fecal sample may be examined microscopically to determine the presence of internal parasites.
Psittacosis Test: Several screening tests are available for the detection of psittacosis or parrot fever. This is important as pan of the new bird exam or annual check-up because the causative agent, Chlamydia psittaci, may be transmitted from birds to humans (see AAV brochure, "Psittacosis").
Blood Tests: A blood sample might be taken to determine the amount and distribution 6 blood cells. This information may suggest the possibility of certain diseases, and further tests may be indicated for confirmation. A series of chemistry tests performed on the blood sample may point to imbalances in biochemical functions and suggest the possibility of organ dysfunction. Blood parasites may also he deterred.
Microbiology: Your avian veterinarian may recommend a culture of the choana (throat), cloaca (vent), crop (esophagus), or some other tissue/fluid sample to determine abnormal growth of bacteria or yeast. At the same time, antibiotic sensitivity discs may be used to determine an appropriate antibiotic to be used if the bacterial growth requires therapy.
Radiographs: X-rays may be used to assess the internal condition of your bird. The presence of new and old fractures, the size and relative relationship of internal organs, the presence of foreign bodies or soft tissue masses such as tumors, and the condition of lungs and air sacs are often evaluated with radiographs. The use of anesthesia may be necessary to produce quality X-rays.
Cytology: With the use of special stains, a veterinarian skilled in this procedure can evaluate smears of tissue or fluids to assist in making a diagnosis.
Virus Screening: Some new tests are currently being developed to screen birds for certain viruses. The detection of viruses is especially important for aviary birds. Some viral agents do not express themselves as clinical disease until the bird is under stress, such as laying eggs, feeding young of at weaning.
ANNUAL CHECK-UPS
Because owners are often unaware of obvious symptoms in the beginning stages of disease in birds, annual check-ups are advised for early identification and management of potential disorders. Also, new information of interest to the bird owner is continually becoming available.
CLEANING SAFELY
by Carolyn Swicegood
There is hardly a corner of the world unpolluted by man-made chemicals. We as consumers created the demand for these earth-destroying substances and we now must do whatever we can to stop the destruction of our planet. A good place to start is at home!
Thanks to cleaning products and the many other chemicals that we use, our homes and indoor aviaries can be compared to miniature chemical factories. Indoor air pollution endangers not only human health but the health and longevity of parrots who are more sensitive and susceptible to damage by chemicals than we. Chemical levels can be up to seventy times higher inside our homes than outside. Over one hundred chemicals commonly found in our homes have been linked to allergies, birth defects, cancer, psychological abnormalities, skin problems, headaches, depression, joint pain, chronic fatigue, chest pains, dizziness, loss of sleep, respiratory disorders and more. The better insulated our homes and aviaries are, the more toxic the indoor air can be.
Chemical sprays never should be used near parrots. Heating and air conditioning systems can distribute the chemical toxins to every room in the home. Non-spray chemical solutions also can pollute indoor air. Even in outdoor aviaries, hazardous chemicals can be inhaled, ingested, and absorbed through the skin of birds' feet as they use perches with residual toxic chemicals improperly rinsed after cleaning. By becoming educated consumers and changing our methods of cleaning, we can improve the health and life expectancy of our birds and ourselves. By using non-toxic cleaning products, we protect the health of our families and birds while we promote a healthier environment. Here are some safe, alternative methods of cleaning our homes and aviaries.
ALL PURPOSE CLEANERS
*Grapefruit Seed Extract (GSE) is a relatively new disinfectant that kills staph, strep, candida, salmonella, and e-coli microorganisms. It also is effective against Giardia. Citricidal is the powdered double-strength version of GSE and is available only through mail order. GSE is a liquid and is available in most health food stores. Nutribiotic, Agrisept, and ProSeed are some of the brand names of GSE. It is non-toxic and can be used to disinfect surfaces in the kitchen, bath, aviary, and nursery. This versatile product has become the disinfectant of choice of many aviculturists. A few drops of GSE added to any cleaning solution will give it germicidal properties as well.
*Add twenty drops of NutriBiotic GSE to a 32-ounce spray bottle filled with water. Use on all surfaces around the house and to clean fruits and vegetables before feeding to parrots.
*Baking soda with water is a good all-purpose cleaner (1/4 cup baking soda to 1 quart water).
*Sprinkle baking soda on surfaces to be cleaned or make a paste with baking soda and a small amount of liquid soap. Scrub with a damp nylon scrubbing pad, soft cloth, sponge, or very fine steel wool.
*White distilled vinegar diluted in water removes baking soda residue. Dry with a soft cotton cloth. Recycled cotton clothing serves as a good cleaning and drying cloth.
*Vegetable-based liquid soap, such as castile soap diluted in water makes a good all-purpose cleaner
*Soap jelly can be made by adding 1 cup of soap flakes to 1 quart boiling water. Stir until dissolved. Pour into jar and let cool. Mix with water as needed.
KITCHEN
*Multi-chemical sprays and solutions are not necessary to clean appliances and surfaces in the kitchen.
*Mix a small amount of liquid soap with water in a spray bottle. Mist surfaces and clean with a sponge or cloth. Wipe dry.
*Sprinkle baking soda, or make a paste of baking soda and water; scrub with a wet sponge. If the baking soda leaves a residue, rinse with cold water and vinegar. Dry with a soft cloth.
*For stains on counters, squeeze fresh lemon juice on the stain and allow to stand for 45 minutes.
Sprinkle on baking soda, and rub with a sponge or soft cloth.
*Burned or baked-on food in cookware--Two tablespoons liquid dishwashing detergent and three teaspoons baking soda. Add ingredients to enough water to cover the burned on food; boil for 15-20 minutes and wash normally. Or sprinkle cookware liberally with baking soda and add just enough water to moisten. Let stand for three hours and lift the burned food out of the pan.
*Stained cookware--Use steel wool and a solution of lemon juice and baking soda. Cover the discoloration for thirty minutes; then scrub and rinse clean.
*Cutting board cleaner and disinfectant--Apply 10 to 20 drops of NutriBiotic to cutting board and work into entire board with a wet sponge or dish cloth. Leave on for thirty minutes before rinsing well.
*Ovens--For lightly soiled ovens, make a thick paste of water and baking soda. Scrub well with a nylon scrubbing pad. If the oven is greasy, add a small amount of liquid soap. To remove spots, use very fine steel wool. A wet cleaning pumice bar can be used to remove the toughest spots, being careful not to scratch the surface. Commercial oven cleaners are available that are non-toxic and do not contain lye. Avoid products with the word 'Danger' on the label.
*To clean underneath the refrigerator, tie a sock around the end of a yardstick. When one side is dirty, turn the sock inside out and repeat.
BATHROOMS
*To clean the sink, shower, tub, and tile grout, soak with diluted liquid soap, sprinkle on baking soda, scrub with a nylon scrubbing pad, and rinse.
*Use a stiff tooth brush or scrub brush for tiles. If any residue occurs, rinse with vinegar and cold water.
*To remove soap scum from glass shower doors, soak surfaces with diluted liquid soap and scrub with a nylon scrubbing pad. For serious soap scum, use very fine steel wool. Rinse with cold water and, if necessary, add vinegar to rinse. Buff dry.
*To disinfect bathroom surfaces, spray with a solution of one quart of water and twenty drops of GSE (grapefruit seed extract) from health food stores.
*Mildew remover: Spray mildew with hydrogen peroxide.
*Prevention:Keep surfaces dry. Bacteria, viruses, mildew, and mold cannot live without dampness. Wipe down surfaces with white vinegar after cleaning. It prevents the growth of mold and mildew.
*Lime deposit remover: Spray a solution of 1 cup apple cider vinegar, 2 tablespoons salt, and 1 cup water on lime deposits and let stand overnight. Rinse with cold water.
FLOORS
*For vinyl floors, fill a bucket with a gallon of warm water and add 1/2 cup of white vinegar.
*To cut grease on vinyl floors, dilute a small amount of liquid soap with water.
*To remove black heel marks on floors, rub with a pencil or typewriter eraser.
*To prevent water spots, dry with a cloth after mopping.
CARPETS
Products like "Carpet Fresh" have been linked to bird deaths. There is no safe way to use it as every time you vacuum clean the carpet, leftover particles will become airborne.
*For spills, immediately blot with a clean cloth or paper towel.
*For most spots, mix liquid soap with water in a spray bottle. Spray lightly and blot with a cloth or towel.
*For grease, cover with baking soda. Allow the grease to be absorbed by the baking soda before vacuuming.
*For odors, sprinkle carpet with plain baking soda. Let sit for 15 minutes, and then vacuum.
*Carpet shampoos may contain toxic ingredients such as ammonia and perchlorethylene, a known carcinogen. Plant-based cleaning products, such as citrus cleaners are preferable. Use a steam cleaning machine with ten to fifteen drops of Grapefruit Seed Extract per gallon of water. Many hospitals now use GSE for carpet cleaning.
WOOD FURNITURE
* CONSUMER REPORTS found that it is better and far less expensive to use a soft cloth or sponge moistened with water and a little all-purpose cleaner, or even a plain damp cloth to clean finished furniture.
*To remove water stains on wood furniture, dab white toothpaste onto stain. Allow the paste to dry and then gently buff off with a soft cloth.
*To dust, wipe along the grain with a soft cloth.
*To clean most spills and fingerprints, rub with a soft cloth, lightly moistened with water. Buff immediately with a soft dry cloth.
*To polish furniture, mix 1/4 cup linseed oil, 1/4 cup vinegar and 1/2 cup lemon juice. Rub into wood with a soft cloth.
*Another furniture polish is made by mixing 2 parts olive oil with 1 part lemon juice. Apply mixture to furniture with a soft cloth and wipe it dry.
*Nicks and scratches can be covered by mixing granular instant coffee with a little water and applying with a clean, cotton cloth.
*A solution of lemon juice and warm water to clean glass-top tables will make them sparkle. Dry them with a linen towel and then go over them with a crumpled newspaper to remove all lint and make the glass shine.
*Use your hair dryer on the cool setting to dust pleated lamp shades and other hard to reach areas.
LEATHER FURNITURE
*Clean weekly by wiping with a soft wet cloth.
*The color pigment on leather furniture is either applied to the surface like paint or the hideis treated with aniline dye. Spills soak up quickly and become stains. Remove all spills immediately and clean the spill area with mild soap and water. Consumer Reports wrote that all commercial leather cleaners remove some of the color from leather.
WINDOWS
*Recipe for window & glass cleaner: 1 gallon water, 1 cup white vinegar. Apply with cloth or spray bottle and clean with a linen cloth.
*For extra sparkle, polish clean windows with a crumpled piece of newspaper when nearly dry.
*Or crumple up black and white newspaper and dip in white vinegar. Wipe the glass until almost dry; then shine with dry newspaper. The drawback to this method is that newspaper print may rub off on the wood surrounding the glass. Best used for inner portions of large expanses of glass.
*Lemon juice removes greasy fingerprints on windows.
* When polishing windows use up and down strokes on one side of the window, and side to side strokes on the other, to tell which side has streaks.
CAGE CLEANING
*There are three perfect ingredients for cage cleaning--soap, water, and "elbow grease". Very little elbow grease is needed if cages are wiped down daily and cleaned well once a week. This method is best to preserve the finish on cages.
*Grapefruit Seed Extract is a good anti-bacterial cleaner for cages . It can be added to a spray bottle and used for pre-soaking the cage, and on a sponge to wipe down the cage. It is completely non-toxic and more effective against strep, staph, salmonella, candida, and e-coli than Clorox!
*OxyFresh also can be used and is especially good at cleaning grates and hardened dirt. It is non-toxic and is effective against polyoma.
*To catch droppings, use newspaper rather than bedding which can hold moisture and rust out cage bottoms.
LAUNDRY
*Laundry Discs are hypo-allergenic, anti-bacterial ceramic "washing stones" that clean clothes through an ion exchange. Laundry Discs are ideal for people with multiple chemical sensitivities, for baby clothes, for natural cotton fabrics and for the environmentally concerned. The discs last for approximately 400 wash loads and eliminate the need for detergents which contain phosphates that harm the environment. Various brands cost from $30- $45 U.S.
*If you use detergent in the washer, eliminate soap residue by adding one cup of white vinegar to the final rinse.
*For homemade laundry starch, dissolve 1 tablespoon cornstarch in 1 pint cold water. Place in a spray bottle. Shake before using.
SILVER POLISH
* To magnetize tarnish away, line an aluminum pan with a piece of aluminum foil. Mix 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 quart hot water. Add silver and boil for three minutes. Remove silver, wash with detergent, rinse and dry. Do not use on silver jewelry. *To clean only one or two pieces of silverware, rub gently with white toothpaste on a soft cloth. Rinse with water and dry with a soft cloth.
STAINLESS STEEL
*Mix baking soda with water and clean. You also can also add a small amount of liquid soap. Rinse with vinegar and water. Buff with a dry cloth.
MARBLE CLEANER
*Mix 1 tablespoon baking soda and 1 quart water. Wash with a sponge and wipe dry.
CHROME CLEANER
*Mix 1/4 cup baking soda with enough water to make a paste. Rub on, rinse with water, dry.
BRASS & COPPER CLEANER
*Mix 2 tablespoons salt, 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 tablespoon vinegar. Rub with sponge and allow to dry. Rinse with hot water and dry with a soft cloth.
*An alternative method is to apply a paste of lemon juice and cream of tartar and leave on for 5 minutes. Wash in warm water and dry with a soft cloth.
*Solid brass is gold-colored on both sides, brass-plated is gold on front and black on the back. These methods are for solid brass only.
DRAIN CLEANER
*When drains are clogged by hair and debris, make a solution of equal parts of baking soda, vinegar and salt. Place in the drain and let it foam for 15-20 minutes. Then rinse with boiling water.
AIR FRESHENERS
*There have been numerous reports of serious toxicity and even death of parrots exposed to "essential oils" so their use should be avoided around birds. Most scented candles should not be used in the air space of parrots. Unscented beeswax candles that contain no chemical additives are safe.
*The use of air fresheners is dangerous to parrots. Rather than freshen the air, they contaminate it with a synthetic fragrance, coat nasal passages with an undetectable oil film, or diminish your sense of smell with a nerve deadening agent. Some contain paradichlorobenzene, an organochlorine that can cause liver and nerve damage. The only way to really freshen the air is to open windows and circulate fresh air with a fan or air conditioner. Here are some safe ways to make the air in our homes more fragrant.
*Set out a dish of cut lemons or baking soda to absorb odors.
*Simmer on the stovetop or in a slow cooker: water, slices of ginger, and spices such as cinnamon, cloves, allspice, vanilla and almond extracts. This also increases humidity in dry heated homes during Winter. Never use Teflon or other non-stick cookware or kettles for simmering. *Stick whole cloves into an orange, grapefruit or lemon and place near heater or air conditioner cold air return vent.
*Decorative containers of cloves and cinnamon sticks can be set in areas where fragrance will be appreciated..
*Fill a saucer with vanilla extract and place near the air intake register of air conditioning or heating system.
*Fill a spray bottle with a pint of water and a tablespoon of vanilla extract. Use as a room air freshener spray to eliminate cooking and pet odors.
*To keep pet areas fragrant, keep an open box of baking soda, a bowl of charcoal, or cotton balls dipped in vanilla extract nearby and out of the reach of children and pets. *Many plants are said to freshen indoor air. The best known of these is the "air plant" or Spider plant.
Technical Focus
Presented by Kaytee (with permission)
Cage Care
Proper selection and maintenance of bird enclosures
Perhaps no accesssory for your companion bird is as important as its enclosure. Finding the appropriate enclosure for your bird is easy. Companion birds need as large a cage as you can afford (and that doesn't allow the bird to crawl through the wires), but is minimally twice their wing span, and three times their length from head to tail. Bar spacing should not exceed head width, thus preventing your bird from putting its head through the cage and causing injury. It should not have any sharp edges, scrolling or areas where a toe, foot or wing could get caught. Again, the most important factor when considering a cage is large size.
Look closely at the construction of the cage you plan to purchase. Strength and durability are crucial. A nontoxic, safe material or finish is also important. Every cage needs a grate in the bottom to prevent your bird from walking in its own waste. Of course, ease of cleaning is also a consideration. The perches in the cage must be safe and sturdy. Several perches are best, varying the size slightly, although not cluttering the cage. These too must have sturdy construction, although chewing wooden perches is good for parrots as it exercises their powerful beaks. Sand paper covered perches are not recommended by avian veterinarians because they can damage the underside of the foot and potentially cause lameness. Never locate perches over the food and water dishes. Perches should be cleaned and disinfected when they become soiled.
The bedding used in the cage bottom must provide absorbency and also ease of cleaning. Aspen, corn cob, pine and cedar shavings, walnut bedding, and cage litters are all acceptable, but only when used in conjuntion with a grate. Many people successfully use ordinary paper bags, newspaper, and shredded office paper. The truly critical point is that the bedding be changed often. Often is at least twice a week, and preferably every day or every other day. At least twice a month you should remove the tray and grate and thoroughly wash and sanitize them, making sure to completely rinse and dry them afterwards. Never allow your bird to consume the bedding materials - even if the bedding material is labeled that it can be eaten. Clean any spilled fresh foods in the cage immediately.
Damp, highly soiled bedding poses a health risk to your bird due to molds, fungi, and bacteria. These organisms are ubiquitous in the environment, meaning they can and do occur anywhere! Any bedding material has the potential to mold if not cleaned periodically. The purpose of bedding material is to absorb moisture and control odor, so it is inherent in the product that moisture build-up is an eventuality. Remember that mold spores (especially Aspergillus sp., the most common mycosis affecting birds) are ubiquitous, and they are just waiting for a nice, warm, moist place to settle down and grow. It is up to you to ensure that the little fungus or bacteria business doesn't become profitable in your bird's cage bottom. Again, the easiest way to do that is to change the bedding frequently.
Clean all feeders and water containers daily. Cleaning does not mean just dumping the water container daily and filling it with fresh water; rather it means actually washing the dishes every day. It is a good idea to have several sets of dishes for your bird, so that when one is being cleaned, washed and dried, the other set can be in place. Poor quality water and foods with a high moisture content (grapes, apples, citrus fruits) are the greatest contributor to high bacterial exposure in birds. Soft foods and fruits should be placed in a separate container and removed after about 2-4 hours depending upon the climate in which you live.
All these dishes should be cleaned as thoroughly as the water container, however, even these are often not properly handled. When water containers are not thoroughly cleaned and disinfected, a biofilm is created in the container. This biofilm creates a slimy, mucous-like feel to the sides and bottom of the container. It is composed primarily of bacteria, microorganisms and residue.
Bird owners often add vitamins, minerals, and other supplements to their birds' water hoping to fill a perceived (or real) nutritional void. Unfortunately, these vitamins are often extremely unstable, especially in an aqueous (water-like) environment and when exposed to sunlight. The net result after sitting for 12-18 hours is a high nutrient base which, although unavailable for your bird's digestive system, is highly utilizable by bacteria fungi, and molds. When you add to this already apparent potential problem an occasional fecal dropping and particles fo food, the organic content is readily available for bad microbial growth.
E.coli, Pseudomonas and other gram-negative organisms (which are especially harmful to birds with overexposure) are frequent contaminants of water including both city systems and well systems. Garden hoses, PVC pipes, and even bottled water have been documented to contain high concentrations of bacteria. In general, the use of a garden hose for filling water dishes should be strongly discouraged due to the very large numbers of Pseudomonas bacteria that inhabit the entire length of the hose (thus preventing adequate flushing.) Bacteria are not the only pollutants in water, however, giardia, other parasites, fungi, molds, and even certain viruses can spoil a bird's water, food containers or cage bottom.
Many products are available for sanitizing and disinfecting food and water bowls and cages. Bleach may be safely used (for cleaning, not as an additive) at a level of 200 ml per gallon of water, but will not kill mycobacteria and many viruses. A recently developed disinfectant that has been approved for use in birds is a synthetic phenolic derivative (Avinol-3) which may be used at 1/2 ounce per gallon of water is effective against most viruses. Another broad spectrum disinfectant used in many poultry facilities is Virkon S used at 1.5-2.5 ouonces per gallon of water is also effective against most viruses. Still another is a product called Dentagene, from the makers of Oxyfresh, and this disinfectant is very safe to use. These disinfectants are best obtained through your veterinarian or health care professional. Chlorhexidine, the blue disinfectant, is not very effective for birds and its use is strongly discouraged.
The enviroment around your bird's cage should be a safe haven, which gives the bird some privacy during part of the day. Cages should not be located directly in front of vents because alternate heating and cooling can cause stress, although fresh air is a must for birds. Smoking around birds can cause respiratory distress and illness. the kitchen is a dangerous and even lethal place if certain non-stick cookware burns, or if birds fall or land on hot stoves or in cooking food. Direct sunlight is fine as long as the bird can also escape from the light if the heat becomes too great during hot summer days.
Facts Every Bird Owner Should Know About
Avian Nutrition
Presented by Kaytee (with permission)
General
- Between 50 and 75% of bird illnesses are avoidable by feeding a nutritionally superior diet.
Malnutrition causes reduced immune response and poor health
- Malnutrition or poor health causes decreased absorption of nutrients and less efficient metabolism or nutrient processing
- Malnutrition, disease or any other stresses increase the body's requirement for nutrients
- The bird's age, health status, reproductive status and replacement of feathers (molt) affect nutrient requirements
- Proper maintenance of the pet bird and the environment is critical to continued good health. Daily cleaning/disinfecting of water containers is essential
- The most common cause of bird illness is bacterial infections. The chance of acquiring infections is increased with vitamin supplementation of water and feeding soft foods (which are prone to bacterial and fungai contamination)
Feeding
- Virtually no diet fed in captivity contains food items that the bird would naturally eat in the wild (these items are simply not commercially available)
- Most seeds, grains and fruits are deficient in a number of critical nutrients (i.e. calcium, vitamin A, vitamin D, etc.)
- Fresh, deeply pigmented vegetables are much more nutritious than fruits. Generally, fruits should only be considered as treats
- Creating an optimally balanced diet is extremely complicated due to numerous interactions between nutrients as well as other dietary components
- A seed-only food (unsupplemented) is NOT a satisfactory diet for any pet bird
- A nutritionally adequate diet for pet birds can be achieved wity a variety of feeding methods: a) extruded diets (e.g. exact) (ideal); commercial, supplemented variety diet (e.g. Fiesta, Perfect Choice) (excellent); fortified seed diet (e.g. Forti-Diet) (very good); home prepared diet consisting of a wide variety of carefully chosen ingredients (difficult); plain seed diet supplemented with vitamins, minerals, vegetables and fruits (difficult)
- A properly reserched, complete extruded diet is the most nutritionally superior of all diet types since precise levels of nutrients can be controlled and each bite is complete
Health Care
- Learn to recognize normal behavior and attitude as well as signs of illness
- "Bird-proof" your home. Safety check your pets cage
- Regular veterinary check-ups may help prevent or detect major diseases or illness
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